Just Cruizin On Bluemoon
Always Live Life to the fullest!
Log 31 - 43
2007/12/29
30/11/07 to 27/12/07
We lifted anchor on the 30 /11/ 2007 for the Mafia Islands. The sailing has been brilliant! Up to over 9 knots! Again! Guess we needed to make up for all the motoring we�ve been doing! Then of course we had to change course and have a current against us! Yet we are still sailing!! Heheh Came past Sanyati who were taking photos of us at full sail!
When passing other yachts so close it always is a great feeling!
We passed by a few different places such as Jewe reef where we caught two barracuda! Gave them to the locals fishing off the reef, then Fanjove Island which was pretty stunning with white sandy beaches and lots of palm trees! Picture perfect! There is also a very busy fishing community on the Island. We also passed Songa Songa Island and a few others. Well finely after a great days sail we decided to anchor at Okusa Island which is a low sandy Island with hardly any trees on it! Yet it was so pretty. Most of the Islands really are! So we went ashore to investigate. Alastair, Sue, John and myself had a fantastic time finding the most stunning, unusual and beautiful shells! Sue and I could not carry any more! And we never took our eyes off the sand!!! Good thing we could not carry anymore because next thing we notice Alastair and John with a large crowd of Tanzanian fishermen! And as we turn to look around as the island is rather small, we see crowds of these fishermen walking us!! It was quite a nerve wrecking experience as there were only the four of us and maybe 18 of them if not more! There was a fishing village just with men and we never noticed until then so we beeline for the boat and watched as Alastair and John left their large crowd they were chatting with, also noticing the herd heading for us, and so hurried to the boat so we could leave! That night we shared a chicken curry with Sanyati which Alastair had made! Delish!
The heat is just too hot! You perspire permanently and it is only going to get hotter!!!
The next morning we all left for Chole bay, which unfortunately you have to get permission to anchor there as it is a marine reserve and our timing was running out... Sanyati had to fly back to Durban for Paula, there daughter�s wedding, so we did not want to mess around and pushed on to Mafia bay which is a pretty wooded island and which had the most spectacular welcome we have ever had into any Island! There was a pod of whale sharks with their young! They are humungous! Almost as big as our boat! We were breathless! It was the most awesome experience having these large, unthreatening, gentle whales swimming so close to our boat! And beautiful! We had furled in, and were motoring ever so slowly when they decided to come and investigate us! I am not sure if it was my yelling for more batteries as each set I put into the camera just didn�t work! Then I could take one photo and the battery showed dead! Poor Jess was running up and down while I was whizzing around the boat trying to capture every move they made! Jono put on the mask and stuck his head in the water, when the largest of the whale sharks swam close behind the boat with his mouth open, just following us for about two minutes!!!!!!!!!! the size alone of this gentle, beautiful whale makes your heart pump so fast, you cant help but have a natural cardiovascular work out!!! Breathtaking cannot begin to express how you feel! Justine put her hand out to touch them as did Jono just as he went down under the boat! Those eyes were touching! To be so close to such an awesome and placid thing was the greatest blessing we could have had! Wow! We wanted to jump in and swim with them, yet were unsure because of their young around them... and just looking at their size I can assure you we did not want to cheese them off at all! We went on in to anchor next to Sanyati and Kai Shara who was not very impressed with the anchorage as he has a deep draught which limits him to anchoring in shallow water like Sanyati or us... Being on a catamaran most certainly has some great perks! You can anchor close to shore in shallow water and have a protected, calm anchorage while monohulls have to anchor further out and rock and roll in their anchorage. Though the anchorage turned out to be quite okay for him.
Anyhow, we went ashore to the busy fishing village and had to walk up a long steep hill to get to the town! And in the soaring heat!!! We are talking 37 degrees! I cannot tell you how much you miss having even a bike! Even a piggy back ride would be marvellous!! Hehe we still have hope! The walking is okay but once you fill up your diesel, petrol or water cans, and have to walk back the long distance to your boat in the suffocating heat, you will find that you have to rest for the rest of the day!!! What we found out about the mafia island made our hair stand on end!!! The island was not publicised like Zanzibar, and gave the impression of being mysterious and unspoilt. Around the 12th to the 14th century Mafia was an important settlement to the Shirazi Arabs. It was then taken over by the Sultan of Kilwa and had faded by the time the Portuguese arrived. It could have boomed in the 19th century in the same way as Zanzibar, had it not been for the Saklava cannibals in 1829 who ate everyone! OOOhhhh!!Yet we took photos outside the Mafia Island sign board with everyone watching! And that alone made us hurry it up! So by the time we got back to the boat, we were exhausted! Lifted anchor a day later and were off to Shungu Mbili Island. It was quite funny actually because we decided to go through all the islands instead of just going around and missing them, so we took our time sailing through all the islands. This large area sheltered by Mafia island offers the most wonderful and pleasant cruising in Tanzania. and the water is clear yet it is also very shallow which kept John and I checking the chart permanently! The anchorages are only a few hours from each other, which makes the sailing extremely relaxing. So because of the detour, we landed up coming in to anchor later than Sanyati and Kai Shara who were coming back from an excursion already, of shell picking on the beach..... So while we are starting to drop anchor, we notice Sue from Sanyati trying to board her boat while still hanging onto all her shells in a rather roughish swell, and missed holding onto anything but the shells and next thing PLOOPS she falls into the water! Here she is still hanging onto the shells while Ralph and Alastair are trying to get her out the water, and keep the boat from smacking her into her own boat! We roared with laughter as she managed to get a footing still holding every single shell while Alastair helped push her up! LOL I guess it helped that she is petite! We of course were paying such close attention to them, laughing hysterically at them, that we never took note of our anchoring right next to them!!!! So we had to lift anchor and move to a safer distance and re-anchor! We then spent our last night with Sanyati before they left very early for Dar. We lifted anchor a little before 7am and headed off with Kai Shara to Bunylini Bay where we anchored for the night. After sailing for a good few hours, Sanyati radios us to ask if it is us in front of him!! Blow us down!!! There is Sanyati that left at 4:30 am, and us at 7am, and here we are in front of them!! They had decided to go out and down a touch so they could catch the current going up, unfortunately the only current they caught was the one going against them!!! So we watched them passing by as we came in to anchor which was not a very protected anchorage and so we started to rock and roll... wind was up, swells got quite nasty! And so we had a terrible night! The next morning we lifted anchor before 5 am, we had quite a hair raising time trying to clear out the bay into open waters without hitting any coral patches or just grounding!!! The current was against us, and the swells were shocking!! Short swells close together is never fun! The wind was howling and our alarm was going off permanently showing �Shallow depth� ... We were falling off the tops of these swells slamming into the next one, and so it went for quite a way! Ralph also had a very stressful time! So we were relaying the depths to him so he could be prepared. Around mid day the sailing got good and the seas had settled into long rolling swells which are always great . Good thing the wind was up cause we were able to get to Dar Es Salaam harbour by 12:15pm! The only problem was when we were sailing past the big ships who were anchored offshore from the harbour, I noticed a water bottle floating straight up and was thinking how strange that was.. Next thing I notice a rope.... yelled to John to switch off the motors, and like lightening he did, just as the rope wound on our starboard prop! Kai Shara was warned to watch out for fishing nets as we noticed nets all around us. John and I managed to pull the rope up, cut his bottles and save them, pull the rope through and off the prop then tie his bottles back onto the net and we were free! Amazing how easy that sounded and quick too! Yet far from in reality!! Almost 45 minutes later, we were back on track checking for those darn nets! You try and spot nets with a water bottle or small while ball floating in the middle of the harbour mouth, when you have lots of white horses!!
So we all settle down and are coming into the mouth following the marked buoys. John goes inside to mark our position and to check on the anchorage while I am sweeping the cockpit, and Jonathan is busy reading his book!!!! We are also all paying attention to Ralph who is desperately calling the Port Control on the radio for permission to enter. We called and were given permission and he is not getting a response, keeping in mind that he has to go downstairs into his saloon to where his radio is, so he is not at the helm! We have two portable ones and so it is easy to lax-i-daze-i cally call anyone right from the helm seat! All of a sudden I look up, jut as John comes into the cockpit, and just as Jono stands up and in unison we all jump into action, yelling, by trying to get Ralf back to the helm!!! His boat is inches behind us! I am talking seconds from impact!!!! You can touch his boat casually from the swim platform!!!! Then again with it pounding into the water right behind you that wouldn�t be such a hot idea! What a shock! Ralph comes out just as he realizes we gonna smack, then the port control starts calling him, so we turn sharply to port while he turns sharply to starboard, then we yelling again at him to watch out for the nets which he is heading for, then he is back to turning sharply to port to avoid them all the while the Port Control are yelling on the radio for �Ki Sha� !! And we are still pounding through the ridiculous wake!! What a moment! As I jump to the helm again, I somehow hook the camera and yank it off the table onto the floor! NoooOOO!! I am absolutely upset about that! I had such a great camera which took such brilliant photo�s and now it is completely blurred and useless! We had a Sony H1 ... well, we whipped out the other digital camera to take some incredible photos of the many hydrofoils and ferries flying through the water at such high speed causing this most incredible wake we have ever seen! Let alone sail through! Yep, you guessed it, we had the ride of our lives hitting that wake and in the crisis we were in!! Whew! That called for an immediate strong cuppa!!! It was sooooooooooo close!!!
So with things settled down, passing the wakes and seeing a clear stretch with no nets down the entrance channel we relaxed still, with Kai Shara right behind us, sipping our delish cuppa! We came into the narrow entrance which has strong currents flowing across it! We came into an anchorage spot just past the flame tower, and the incredible fish market! Having already signed into Tanzania, you still supposed to sign in and out each port... and so off with the dingy we go, me standing watch as you are warned not to leave your boat unattended, day or night! The kids were left on Bluemoon doing school and so here I was being surrounded by all the unemployed locals chatting about our different cultures and lifestyles! It was really great because these Tanzanians are real friendly people! So I was entertained while dingy watching, and John and Ralph gallivanted around the area to stamp in! The harbour as any I suppose was dirty, and it always shocks me to see how much junk is floating in the water! It was not long and we were back on the boat! Helps when customs and immigration are all in the same vicinity! Then it was back to lifting anchor and heading out for Dar Es Salaam yacht club in Msasani Bay. But before we could get out, we noticed a pair of jean floating under the boat and next moment, it had stuck onto the starboard motor! So that had to be switched off and the fan that cools the starboard motor gave up so now we could just smell rubber burning! Oh boy! Great thing having two motors as we used port to casually help us out of this harbour. To our dismay we found out that most yachties DO NOT stop in at the harbour to sign in, they go to the Dar yacht club, then catch a taxi to sign in! Well, now we know and so do you! Then we had quite a time dodging all the fishing nets! Man they are everywhere! Were tempted to pull them in and see if we�d catch anything! Fishing in Tanzania has been very slow and disheartening! Yet, we continue to try! And are always hopeful!
This is the largest yacht club in East Africa! Fantastic! The club and surrounds are made from the coral and looks absolutely stunning! Being members of the Royal Natal Yacht Club, we get 30 days free including all club facilities!! Showers!!! Free showers! Yep, Free showers every night with out any worries 24 hours a day for 30 days! Free showers!! OOOooohhh!!!
Focussed again here.... The fore deck is where everything happens, the watering hole as it is also called... there�s a games room for the kids with TV, pool table, table tennis, and a bar with cool drinks... they have disco�s with lights and all! So all the kids, especially teenage�s get to enjoy the facilities most of the time. A swimming pool for club members overlooking the stunning bay is near the games room, then the park for younger kids to swing, slide and jungle gym... real snazzy especially with the biggest sand pit. There are races regularly and the best race which we were here for is the Dar - Tanga - Dar race early in December. There is a ferry service from your boat to the club, 24/7 so you do not need to take your dingy off! And they also have good security. They have sporadic patrols around the moorings and use a searchlight which scans the area. Most of the boats have local watchmen aboard. And the best ever is the free wireless!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You cannot imagine our delight to sit on the fore deck with the best view ever, and spend 24/7 on the net catching up on logs, sending mail and just chilling! I am on cloud nine!
Spent the night at the club with Sanyati, Kai Shara and Magic, and we all had burgers which were real tasty! The following morning I went with Sue and Ian to the Slipway, (Msasani slipway) which is a complex of shops attached to an old boat yard. The one and only chandlery that is written in the East Coast Pilot book, does not exist anymore. It closed down a few years ago. There is a Shoprite just like in South Africa! And an Italian ice cream shop! So we got a few things at their local craft market. Got back to the boat, met Alastair on the way and they were off to the airport back to Durban. Ian was here for a week longer. We had a fair amount of maintenance to sort out as we had a broken alternator covering, Our link popped with the lightning surge! We had a storm squall come over and lightning everywhere. We had all switched off all our electrical equipment, and as soon as we did that lightening struck so loud and right by us! We saw our board light up! Oh Frek! We had a surge from the solar panels and that just was not too good! So our link (Battery monitor) popped. We fried our starter battery, and so need to get one. The starboard fan needs to be replaced. And a few extra things that need to be sorted.
We have enjoyed so many days drinking good beer in this incredibly hot place with Greg and Willem, from Magic, Heinz and Patricia from Papagena, Fritz and Trish from Colombus, Dave and Cathy, from Stronglegs and Kevin and his daughter Tara from Isonomy. Gavin and Cathy on Erica moved onto Tanga, and Peter and Yvonne from Forever flew back to Durban while they had their boat sailed back home by Billy.. This is an active club, with pizza nights on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Fridays are happy hour where this club is jam packed by locals who are from all over the world and living here. The club is not just a yacht club it is also a country club joined so all the locals living here come here regualary! So there are so many kids that our kids have made friends with and have been having a ball! Jono is the table tennis and pool foondie! He is challenged all the time! Yep, that�s our son! Even some of the adults challenge him and he comes out the star most of the time. Though it is good fun when we all go down to the games room to watch the challenges with either table tennis or pool, yet John, yep my man! He is the real table tennis pro! And yep, he taught Jono! So it makes for some fun and exciting games! Willem has got so good with the table tennis that he plays with Jono that he is close to overtaking Jono here... think it is time to leave! LOL We have made some real good friends and have some most wonderful and memorable memories that will carry us for many years to come! Went with the taxi to Dar es salaam town and was taken back by how built up it was. Though things are still rather expensive, it ha been quite refreshing seeing some good prices. So with full day in town, we got back to the club ready for a good cold one. Ian noticed the one cat, Crystic was sitting lopsided and so we went with the ferry to check it out and there was this cat sitting on top of a bommie! There was a loose bolt that was supposed to hold the sail drive down, and because it was missing, when the sail drive hit the bommie it pushed up and started a flood of water pouring in. After just a few hours we noticed the one hull was completely immersed in water! Ian had previously gotten hold of the owner to tell him of the dilemma. We put the dingy down and rushed over to see what we could do. Take her out onto the slip was about the only thing because of the huge hole! We had stuffed it to block it, but it was not helping like it should. The bilge pumps were not working so that created an even bigger dilemma! Ian and I managed to lift the anchor and secure it. Then I was inside with Ian using the manual pump and pumping like never before, at one stage the water was going down, then it was getting higher... I was up to my neck in water! Pumping while every thing was floating back and forth! Dishes, books, toilet goodies, you name it! Only after the fact did I realize that all the toilet mess was also floating around! Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! We stunk! Had scratchers and open sores from the barnacles cutting us on the anchor chain and now we were covered in this flooded water! Ian was fantastic! We were moving the boat with the dingy and the ferry trying to get the boat out the water, so everyone was buzzing around trying to level the boat out. We pumped non stop till almost all the water was out, just less than our ankles. John from African Rhythm came to help pump the water out. All the staff from the club were all pumping, helping, and doing whatever they could to save this boat! Eventually the boat was put onto a steel frame with a tractor and pulled out the water. Job done! Man was that shower fantastic and extremely appreciated! I want to tell you, our muscles the next day was in shock! I could hardly lift an arm!! We have had a good few squalls which have been great for catching drinking water and for rinsing the boat off! We went out the other day to make some water and we had to choose going out when the kaskazi was coming in!! The kaskazi is like a squall that comes in through the mouth with strong winds and rough seas!!! I made the mistake of calling it the kamikaze which everyone is now using as a cool slang word! So we continue going out hoping to get into deeper water so the boat won�t lift too much and allow air in, though of course it never worked like that! We landed up being broad side these ridiculous waves and were tossing and turning so badly that we aborted our mission to make water and headed back to anchor in the kaskazi and hope like mad our anchor held! Difficult trying to drop anchor in like 35 to 40 knot winds and not drag!! Yet it was accomplished! Like pros!
The following day we caught the ferry early and went to the club to catch up on things.. Justine and Jessica were going to the shop up the road and so we ordered coffee, chatted about our plans and next thing I notice Jessica, then Justine walking back then off to the bathroom. Didn�t think much of it, then we hear Justine shouting.. �mom�then getting louder and louder till she was yelling �mom�with such panic in her voice that we dived off the chairs and ran to the bathroom only to find Jess on the floor, blood all over her, and totally disorientated, poor Justine was shaking and in shock! Oh baby girl! Jess had moved to the side of the gravel road to allow a truck to pass and tripped over some razor wire on the side by the thorns!! She had cut herself quite bad, and was bleeding badly from her elbow which had been spiked and torn by the spike in the razor wire, and so Justine took her back to wipe her down and clean her up. She sat her by the mirror while she fetched loo roll to wipe the cuts. Jess saw the blood which was everywhere! And so fainted! We thought she might have had a seizure, but she was only disorientated and recognised us. So we felt a lot more at ease knowing it would be okay. She used to faint when she saw her own blood, but not with a scratch and had not done it since she was young, then again she never hurt herself like this with so much blood! So we gave her some coke, then a shower and instead of her having a stich or two on the elbow I managed to use the steri-strip to bind it up so she could let it heal and Voila! After a few days the wound joined and on its way to fully closing without scarring!!
Decided that we were going to braai on the beach for Christmas. Only problem was that we were told we�d loose our membership etc. etc so I went and asked the committee members who were at the office, and it was no problem at all, they even offered me the pizz patio with a bar-man! Braai, tables chairs, charcoal and even table cloths! So we all spread the word to a few boats and went shopping. Willem and Justine decorated the place, and we all made our salads and marinades our meat. We arrived around 11 am and started to get into the festive mood with music, and drinking. This heat is really too much! 38.5 degrees, and the humidity is not like Durban at all! Yet, we all had costumes and sarongs on! We had bought some real Christmas hats which we wore, others had reindeer hats and some sprinkle of decor. We had also bought colourful garlands which go around your neck. The kids were truly blessed with the gifts from Magic and kai Shara!! We had Greg and Willem (S.A) from Magic, Heinz and Patricia (German) from Papagena, Ralph (S.A) from Kai Shara, Bill (SA) and Marilize (Venezuela) from Jenain, Fritz (USA) and Trish (Australian) from Colombus, Dave (Australian) and Cathy (USA) and son Jack from Stronglegs, A German couple from Glob, Kevin and daughter Tara from Isonomy, and then Taustin who is a kite instructor here who is actually from Berlin Germany, he came with his ski boat and we brought the knee board. Had a great day skiing, eating, drinking and chatting! It was such an awesome day sharing salads made from all over and sharing different experiences and cultures. Some of these people been sailing for over 18 years! Some 35! And the stories keep you hanging onto every word! We were given the highlights and all the details so if we go to some of these places we would know what to expect! It was an all rounder fantastic day! Our lunch turned into an all evening occasion. We only got home after nine! Got home and watched a video! Then relaxed for boxing day (family day) then spent the rest of the day at the club sending mail and catching up on my logs!! Then the same afternoon we were off to Papagena during a kaskazi for a birthday celebration! Patricia invited most of us from the Christmas Party but Columbus and Stronglegs slept ALL day from the drinking that was done and so could not make it. We started on the rum which was still from Madagascar. Really great as you don�t need much to get you going!! Tried to sing happy birthday in every language Patricia spoke! LOL!! She is such an awesome woman! They are like walking universities with the knowledge and information they have and all the things they have done! Then Heinz who makes his own beer and liqueurs had made an orange, marmalade one and so we all testing and tasting... Not such a great idea for me especially when I am sitting next to Greg and John and Patricia is pouring the rum! Great, brilliant and fantastic party! Went to drop Kai Shara off then magic then it was back to Bluemoon. Had supper from our Christmas braai, chatted and shared about all the great things we�d been experiencing. Kids went off to sleep but john and I were up most of the night, this was the worst night ever with this kaskazi! You bounce all over the place, then as you doze off the rain wakes you and you are flying around closing all the hatches then opening them because you are dying of the heat and so it went for most of the night! Today, I have spent most of the day catching up on this log. Kids been playing board games, and John tidying up his files from the computer. It is still real rocky and we are bouncing around . It is 33.5 degrees and we are all perspiring! Looks like a rain squall is rolling in... the wind is up and the sky grey... Kelly family is playing on the cd and we are all content enjoying the moment.... Tomorrow the Sanyati crew arrive back from Durban. Now we have a party to organise for new year as we cannot partake of the clubs party because you have to wear a tux and a ball gown. Also it is 60 000 shillings each! So we can only join the crowd after 11 pm for the fireworks, so who knows what we will decide as most of the yachties are not going. Will be sure to let you know. Until then.... keep your chins up and get those fingers moving!! We want mail! We want mail! We want mail! We want mail! We want mail!
30/11/07 to 27/12/07
We lifted anchor on the 30 /11/ 2007 for the Mafia Islands. The sailing has been brilliant! Up to over 9 knots! Again! Guess we needed to make up for all the motoring we�ve been doing! Then of course we had to change course and have a current against us! Yet we are still sailing!! Heheh Came past Sanyati who were taking photos of us at full sail!
When passing other yachts so close it always is a great feeling!
We passed by a few different places such as Jewe reef where we caught two barracuda! Gave them to the locals fishing off the reef, then Fanjove Island which was pretty stunning with white sandy beaches and lots of palm trees! Picture perfect! There is also a very busy fishing community on the Island. We also passed Songa Songa Island and a few others. Well finely after a great days sail we decided to anchor at Okusa Island which is a low sandy Island with hardly any trees on it! Yet it was so pretty. Most of the Islands really are! So we went ashore to investigate. Alastair, Sue, John and myself had a fantastic time finding the most stunning, unusual and beautiful shells! Sue and I could not carry any more! And we never took our eyes off the sand!!! Good thing we could not carry anymore because next thing we notice Alastair and John with a large crowd of Tanzanian fishermen! And as we turn to look around as the island is rather small, we see crowds of these fishermen walking us!! It was quite a nerve wrecking experience as there were only the four of us and maybe 18 of them if not more! There was a fishing village just with men and we never noticed until then so we beeline for the boat and watched as Alastair and John left their large crowd they were chatting with, also noticing the herd heading for us, and so hurried to the boat so we could leave! That night we shared a chicken curry with Sanyati which Alastair had made! Delish!
The heat is just too hot! You perspire permanently and it is only going to get hotter!!!
The next morning we all left for Chole bay, which unfortunately you have to get permission to anchor there as it is a marine reserve and our timing was running out... Sanyati had to fly back to Durban for Paula, there daughter�s wedding, so we did not want to mess around and pushed on to Mafia bay which is a pretty wooded island and which had the most spectacular welcome we have ever had into any Island! There was a pod of whale sharks with their young! They are humungous! Almost as big as our boat! We were breathless! It was the most awesome experience having these large, unthreatening, gentle whales swimming so close to our boat! And beautiful! We had furled in, and were motoring ever so slowly when they decided to come and investigate us! I am not sure if it was my yelling for more batteries as each set I put into the camera just didn�t work! Then I could take one photo and the battery showed dead! Poor Jess was running up and down while I was whizzing around the boat trying to capture every move they made! Jono put on the mask and stuck his head in the water, when the largest of the whale sharks swam close behind the boat with his mouth open, just following us for about two minutes!!!!!!!!!! the size alone of this gentle, beautiful whale makes your heart pump so fast, you cant help but have a natural cardiovascular work out!!! Breathtaking cannot begin to express how you feel! Justine put her hand out to touch them as did Jono just as he went down under the boat! Those eyes were touching! To be so close to such an awesome and placid thing was the greatest blessing we could have had! Wow! We wanted to jump in and swim with them, yet were unsure because of their young around them... and just looking at their size I can assure you we did not want to cheese them off at all! We went on in to anchor next to Sanyati and Kai Shara who was not very impressed with the anchorage as he has a deep draught which limits him to anchoring in shallow water like Sanyati or us... Being on a catamaran most certainly has some great perks! You can anchor close to shore in shallow water and have a protected, calm anchorage while monohulls have to anchor further out and rock and roll in their anchorage. Though the anchorage turned out to be quite okay for him.
Anyhow, we went ashore to the busy fishing village and had to walk up a long steep hill to get to the town! And in the soaring heat!!! We are talking 37 degrees! I cannot tell you how much you miss having even a bike! Even a piggy back ride would be marvellous!! Hehe we still have hope! The walking is okay but once you fill up your diesel, petrol or water cans, and have to walk back the long distance to your boat in the suffocating heat, you will find that you have to rest for the rest of the day!!! What we found out about the mafia island made our hair stand on end!!! The island was not publicised like Zanzibar, and gave the impression of being mysterious and unspoilt. Around the 12th to the 14th century Mafia was an important settlement to the Shirazi Arabs. It was then taken over by the Sultan of Kilwa and had faded by the time the Portuguese arrived. It could have boomed in the 19th century in the same way as Zanzibar, had it not been for the Saklava cannibals in 1829 who ate everyone! OOOhhhh!!Yet we took photos outside the Mafia Island sign board with everyone watching! And that alone made us hurry it up! So by the time we got back to the boat, we were exhausted! Lifted anchor a day later and were off to Shungu Mbili Island. It was quite funny actually because we decided to go through all the islands instead of just going around and missing them, so we took our time sailing through all the islands. This large area sheltered by Mafia island offers the most wonderful and pleasant cruising in Tanzania. and the water is clear yet it is also very shallow which kept John and I checking the chart permanently! The anchorages are only a few hours from each other, which makes the sailing extremely relaxing. So because of the detour, we landed up coming in to anchor later than Sanyati and Kai Shara who were coming back from an excursion already, of shell picking on the beach..... So while we are starting to drop anchor, we notice Sue from Sanyati trying to board her boat while still hanging onto all her shells in a rather roughish swell, and missed holding onto anything but the shells and next thing PLOOPS she falls into the water! Here she is still hanging onto the shells while Ralph and Alastair are trying to get her out the water, and keep the boat from smacking her into her own boat! We roared with laughter as she managed to get a footing still holding every single shell while Alastair helped push her up! LOL I guess it helped that she is petite! We of course were paying such close attention to them, laughing hysterically at them, that we never took note of our anchoring right next to them!!!! So we had to lift anchor and move to a safer distance and re-anchor! We then spent our last night with Sanyati before they left very early for Dar. We lifted anchor a little before 7am and headed off with Kai Shara to Bunylini Bay where we anchored for the night. After sailing for a good few hours, Sanyati radios us to ask if it is us in front of him!! Blow us down!!! There is Sanyati that left at 4:30 am, and us at 7am, and here we are in front of them!! They had decided to go out and down a touch so they could catch the current going up, unfortunately the only current they caught was the one going against them!!! So we watched them passing by as we came in to anchor which was not a very protected anchorage and so we started to rock and roll... wind was up, swells got quite nasty! And so we had a terrible night! The next morning we lifted anchor before 5 am, we had quite a hair raising time trying to clear out the bay into open waters without hitting any coral patches or just grounding!!! The current was against us, and the swells were shocking!! Short swells close together is never fun! The wind was howling and our alarm was going off permanently showing �Shallow depth� ... We were falling off the tops of these swells slamming into the next one, and so it went for quite a way! Ralph also had a very stressful time! So we were relaying the depths to him so he could be prepared. Around mid day the sailing got good and the seas had settled into long rolling swells which are always great . Good thing the wind was up cause we were able to get to Dar Es Salaam harbour by 12:15pm! The only problem was when we were sailing past the big ships who were anchored offshore from the harbour, I noticed a water bottle floating straight up and was thinking how strange that was.. Next thing I notice a rope.... yelled to John to switch off the motors, and like lightening he did, just as the rope wound on our starboard prop! Kai Shara was warned to watch out for fishing nets as we noticed nets all around us. John and I managed to pull the rope up, cut his bottles and save them, pull the rope through and off the prop then tie his bottles back onto the net and we were free! Amazing how easy that sounded and quick too! Yet far from in reality!! Almost 45 minutes later, we were back on track checking for those darn nets! You try and spot nets with a water bottle or small while ball floating in the middle of the harbour mouth, when you have lots of white horses!!
So we all settle down and are coming into the mouth following the marked buoys. John goes inside to mark our position and to check on the anchorage while I am sweeping the cockpit, and Jonathan is busy reading his book!!!! We are also all paying attention to Ralph who is desperately calling the Port Control on the radio for permission to enter. We called and were given permission and he is not getting a response, keeping in mind that he has to go downstairs into his saloon to where his radio is, so he is not at the helm! We have two portable ones and so it is easy to lax-i-daze-i cally call anyone right from the helm seat! All of a sudden I look up, jut as John comes into the cockpit, and just as Jono stands up and in unison we all jump into action, yelling, by trying to get Ralf back to the helm!!! His boat is inches behind us! I am talking seconds from impact!!!! You can touch his boat casually from the swim platform!!!! Then again with it pounding into the water right behind you that wouldn�t be such a hot idea! What a shock! Ralph comes out just as he realizes we gonna smack, then the port control starts calling him, so we turn sharply to port while he turns sharply to starboard, then we yelling again at him to watch out for the nets which he is heading for, then he is back to turning sharply to port to avoid them all the while the Port Control are yelling on the radio for �Ki Sha� !! And we are still pounding through the ridiculous wake!! What a moment! As I jump to the helm again, I somehow hook the camera and yank it off the table onto the floor! NoooOOO!! I am absolutely upset about that! I had such a great camera which took such brilliant photo�s and now it is completely blurred and useless! We had a Sony H1 ... well, we whipped out the other digital camera to take some incredible photos of the many hydrofoils and ferries flying through the water at such high speed causing this most incredible wake we have ever seen! Let alone sail through! Yep, you guessed it, we had the ride of our lives hitting that wake and in the crisis we were in!! Whew! That called for an immediate strong cuppa!!! It was sooooooooooo close!!!
So with things settled down, passing the wakes and seeing a clear stretch with no nets down the entrance channel we relaxed still, with Kai Shara right behind us, sipping our delish cuppa! We came into the narrow entrance which has strong currents flowing across it! We came into an anchorage spot just past the flame tower, and the incredible fish market! Having already signed into Tanzania, you still supposed to sign in and out each port... and so off with the dingy we go, me standing watch as you are warned not to leave your boat unattended, day or night! The kids were left on Bluemoon doing school and so here I was being surrounded by all the unemployed locals chatting about our different cultures and lifestyles! It was really great because these Tanzanians are real friendly people! So I was entertained while dingy watching, and John and Ralph gallivanted around the area to stamp in! The harbour as any I suppose was dirty, and it always shocks me to see how much junk is floating in the water! It was not long and we were back on the boat! Helps when customs and immigration are all in the same vicinity! Then it was back to lifting anchor and heading out for Dar Es Salaam yacht club in Msasani Bay. But before we could get out, we noticed a pair of jean floating under the boat and next moment, it had stuck onto the starboard motor! So that had to be switched off and the fan that cools the starboard motor gave up so now we could just smell rubber burning! Oh boy! Great thing having two motors as we used port to casually help us out of this harbour. To our dismay we found out that most yachties DO NOT stop in at the harbour to sign in, they go to the Dar yacht club, then catch a taxi to sign in! Well, now we know and so do you! Then we had quite a time dodging all the fishing nets! Man they are everywhere! Were tempted to pull them in and see if we�d catch anything! Fishing in Tanzania has been very slow and disheartening! Yet, we continue to try! And are always hopeful!
This is the largest yacht club in East Africa! Fantastic! The club and surrounds are made from the coral and looks absolutely stunning! Being members of the Royal Natal Yacht Club, we get 30 days free including all club facilities!! Showers!!! Free showers! Yep, Free showers every night with out any worries 24 hours a day for 30 days! Free showers!! OOOooohhh!!!
Focussed again here.... The fore deck is where everything happens, the watering hole as it is also called... there�s a games room for the kids with TV, pool table, table tennis, and a bar with cool drinks... they have disco�s with lights and all! So all the kids, especially teenage�s get to enjoy the facilities most of the time. A swimming pool for club members overlooking the stunning bay is near the games room, then the park for younger kids to swing, slide and jungle gym... real snazzy especially with the biggest sand pit. There are races regularly and the best race which we were here for is the Dar - Tanga - Dar race early in December. There is a ferry service from your boat to the club, 24/7 so you do not need to take your dingy off! And they also have good security. They have sporadic patrols around the moorings and use a searchlight which scans the area. Most of the boats have local watchmen aboard. And the best ever is the free wireless!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You cannot imagine our delight to sit on the fore deck with the best view ever, and spend 24/7 on the net catching up on logs, sending mail and just chilling! I am on cloud nine!
Spent the night at the club with Sanyati, Kai Shara and Magic, and we all had burgers which were real tasty! The following morning I went with Sue and Ian to the Slipway, (Msasani slipway) which is a complex of shops attached to an old boat yard. The one and only chandlery that is written in the East Coast Pilot book, does not exist anymore. It closed down a few years ago. There is a Shoprite just like in South Africa! And an Italian ice cream shop! So we got a few things at their local craft market. Got back to the boat, met Alastair on the way and they were off to the airport back to Durban. Ian was here for a week longer. We had a fair amount of maintenance to sort out as we had a broken alternator covering, Our link popped with the lightning surge! We had a storm squall come over and lightning everywhere. We had all switched off all our electrical equipment, and as soon as we did that lightening struck so loud and right by us! We saw our board light up! Oh Frek! We had a surge from the solar panels and that just was not too good! So our link (Battery monitor) popped. We fried our starter battery, and so need to get one. The starboard fan needs to be replaced. And a few extra things that need to be sorted.
We have enjoyed so many days drinking good beer in this incredibly hot place with Greg and Willem, from Magic, Heinz and Patricia from Papagena, Fritz and Trish from Colombus, Dave and Cathy, from Stronglegs and Kevin and his daughter Tara from Isonomy. Gavin and Cathy on Erica moved onto Tanga, and Peter and Yvonne from Forever flew back to Durban while they had their boat sailed back home by Billy.. This is an active club, with pizza nights on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Fridays are happy hour where this club is jam packed by locals who are from all over the world and living here. The club is not just a yacht club it is also a country club joined so all the locals living here come here regualary! So there are so many kids that our kids have made friends with and have been having a ball! Jono is the table tennis and pool foondie! He is challenged all the time! Yep, that�s our son! Even some of the adults challenge him and he comes out the star most of the time. Though it is good fun when we all go down to the games room to watch the challenges with either table tennis or pool, yet John, yep my man! He is the real table tennis pro! And yep, he taught Jono! So it makes for some fun and exciting games! Willem has got so good with the table tennis that he plays with Jono that he is close to overtaking Jono here... think it is time to leave! LOL We have made some real good friends and have some most wonderful and memorable memories that will carry us for many years to come! Went with the taxi to Dar es salaam town and was taken back by how built up it was. Though things are still rather expensive, it ha been quite refreshing seeing some good prices. So with full day in town, we got back to the club ready for a good cold one. Ian noticed the one cat, Crystic was sitting lopsided and so we went with the ferry to check it out and there was this cat sitting on top of a bommie! There was a loose bolt that was supposed to hold the sail drive down, and because it was missing, when the sail drive hit the bommie it pushed up and started a flood of water pouring in. After just a few hours we noticed the one hull was completely immersed in water! Ian had previously gotten hold of the owner to tell him of the dilemma. We put the dingy down and rushed over to see what we could do. Take her out onto the slip was about the only thing because of the huge hole! We had stuffed it to block it, but it was not helping like it should. The bilge pumps were not working so that created an even bigger dilemma! Ian and I managed to lift the anchor and secure it. Then I was inside with Ian using the manual pump and pumping like never before, at one stage the water was going down, then it was getting higher... I was up to my neck in water! Pumping while every thing was floating back and forth! Dishes, books, toilet goodies, you name it! Only after the fact did I realize that all the toilet mess was also floating around! Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! We stunk! Had scratchers and open sores from the barnacles cutting us on the anchor chain and now we were covered in this flooded water! Ian was fantastic! We were moving the boat with the dingy and the ferry trying to get the boat out the water, so everyone was buzzing around trying to level the boat out. We pumped non stop till almost all the water was out, just less than our ankles. John from African Rhythm came to help pump the water out. All the staff from the club were all pumping, helping, and doing whatever they could to save this boat! Eventually the boat was put onto a steel frame with a tractor and pulled out the water. Job done! Man was that shower fantastic and extremely appreciated! I want to tell you, our muscles the next day was in shock! I could hardly lift an arm!! We have had a good few squalls which have been great for catching drinking water and for rinsing the boat off! We went out the other day to make some water and we had to choose going out when the kaskazi was coming in!! The kaskazi is like a squall that comes in through the mouth with strong winds and rough seas!!! I made the mistake of calling it the kamikaze which everyone is now using as a cool slang word! So we continue going out hoping to get into deeper water so the boat won�t lift too much and allow air in, though of course it never worked like that! We landed up being broad side these ridiculous waves and were tossing and turning so badly that we aborted our mission to make water and headed back to anchor in the kaskazi and hope like mad our anchor held! Difficult trying to drop anchor in like 35 to 40 knot winds and not drag!! Yet it was accomplished! Like pros!
The following day we caught the ferry early and went to the club to catch up on things.. Justine and Jessica were going to the shop up the road and so we ordered coffee, chatted about our plans and next thing I notice Jessica, then Justine walking back then off to the bathroom. Didn�t think much of it, then we hear Justine shouting.. �mom�then getting louder and louder till she was yelling �mom�with such panic in her voice that we dived off the chairs and ran to the bathroom only to find Jess on the floor, blood all over her, and totally disorientated, poor Justine was shaking and in shock! Oh baby girl! Jess had moved to the side of the gravel road to allow a truck to pass and tripped over some razor wire on the side by the thorns!! She had cut herself quite bad, and was bleeding badly from her elbow which had been spiked and torn by the spike in the razor wire, and so Justine took her back to wipe her down and clean her up. She sat her by the mirror while she fetched loo roll to wipe the cuts. Jess saw the blood which was everywhere! And so fainted! We thought she might have had a seizure, but she was only disorientated and recognised us. So we felt a lot more at ease knowing it would be okay. She used to faint when she saw her own blood, but not with a scratch and had not done it since she was young, then again she never hurt herself like this with so much blood! So we gave her some coke, then a shower and instead of her having a stich or two on the elbow I managed to use the steri-strip to bind it up so she could let it heal and Voila! After a few days the wound joined and on its way to fully closing without scarring!!
Decided that we were going to braai on the beach for Christmas. Only problem was that we were told we�d loose our membership etc. etc so I went and asked the committee members who were at the office, and it was no problem at all, they even offered me the pizz patio with a bar-man! Braai, tables chairs, charcoal and even table cloths! So we all spread the word to a few boats and went shopping. Willem and Justine decorated the place, and we all made our salads and marinades our meat. We arrived around 11 am and started to get into the festive mood with music, and drinking. This heat is really too much! 38.5 degrees, and the humidity is not like Durban at all! Yet, we all had costumes and sarongs on! We had bought some real Christmas hats which we wore, others had reindeer hats and some sprinkle of decor. We had also bought colourful garlands which go around your neck. The kids were truly blessed with the gifts from Magic and kai Shara!! We had Greg and Willem (S.A) from Magic, Heinz and Patricia (German) from Papagena, Ralph (S.A) from Kai Shara, Bill (SA) and Marilize (Venezuela) from Jenain, Fritz (USA) and Trish (Australian) from Colombus, Dave (Australian) and Cathy (USA) and son Jack from Stronglegs, A German couple from Glob, Kevin and daughter Tara from Isonomy, and then Taustin who is a kite instructor here who is actually from Berlin Germany, he came with his ski boat and we brought the knee board. Had a great day skiing, eating, drinking and chatting! It was such an awesome day sharing salads made from all over and sharing different experiences and cultures. Some of these people been sailing for over 18 years! Some 35! And the stories keep you hanging onto every word! We were given the highlights and all the details so if we go to some of these places we would know what to expect! It was an all rounder fantastic day! Our lunch turned into an all evening occasion. We only got home after nine! Got home and watched a video! Then relaxed for boxing day (family day) then spent the rest of the day at the club sending mail and catching up on my logs!! Then the same afternoon we were off to Papagena during a kaskazi for a birthday celebration! Patricia invited most of us from the Christmas Party but Columbus and Stronglegs slept ALL day from the drinking that was done and so could not make it. We started on the rum which was still from Madagascar. Really great as you don�t need much to get you going!! Tried to sing happy birthday in every language Patricia spoke! LOL!! She is such an awesome woman! They are like walking universities with the knowledge and information they have and all the things they have done! Then Heinz who makes his own beer and liqueurs had made an orange, marmalade one and so we all testing and tasting... Not such a great idea for me especially when I am sitting next to Greg and John and Patricia is pouring the rum! Great, brilliant and fantastic party! Went to drop Kai Shara off then magic then it was back to Bluemoon. Had supper from our Christmas braai, chatted and shared about all the great things we�d been experiencing. Kids went off to sleep but john and I were up most of the night, this was the worst night ever with this kaskazi! You bounce all over the place, then as you doze off the rain wakes you and you are flying around closing all the hatches then opening them because you are dying of the heat and so it went for most of the night! Today, I have spent most of the day catching up on this log. Kids been playing board games, and John tidying up his files from the computer. It is still real rocky and we are bouncing around . It is 33.5 degrees and we are all perspiring! Looks like a rain squall is rolling in... the wind is up and the sky grey... Kelly family is playing on the cd and we are all content enjoying the moment.... Tomorrow the Sanyati crew arrive back from Durban. Now we have a party to organise for new year as we cannot partake of the clubs party because you have to wear a tux and a ball gown. Also it is 60 000 shillings each! So we can only join the crowd after 11 pm for the fireworks, so who knows what we will decide as most of the yachties are not going. Will be sure to let you know. Until then.... keep your chins up and get those fingers moving!! We want mail! We want mail! We want mail! We want mail! We want mail!
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 30, 2008, 12:35 AM (UTC 2)
Posted on Wednesday, Apr 30, 2008, 12:37 AM (UTC 2)
We miss the sailing soo much!LOG 41
Hi all! 
This update is to inform you all that we will be flying out on Sunday 27th July, for the Seychelles. 
We will be returning to our long missed treasure "Bluemoon"!
It has been a hectic, and grueling time here in Durban.
If things could go wrong they certainly did! Plans just did not work out and backup plans seemed to go even worse! 
Yet we have managed to sort out the most important things that would have been such a bother to us while sailing.
One great thing about going to the boat show just confirmed how great a yacht we actually have!
Also, most important, we got to see our wonderful friends! You guys have been such an inspiration and encouragement for us! Just cannot express how much you all mean to us and how much we are going to miss you guys!!!!!!! 
We thank the Lord for blessing our lives in such an awesome and wonderful way as we do not know how we would have got this far without your prayers, love and encouragement!!
Like a drug to our veins, we are over the moon!! Gail, our very good friend made a way for us to get our coffee up to the Seychelles!! 
We were introduced to Ron the skipper from Cha-lee who is sailing up to Seychelles!! Was so worried as our luggage might pose a problem at the airport with all our spares for bluemoon!
So just the thought of not having our coffee was getting to be a real concern!! 
Yet, not any more!!! So to all you great folk... have a good cuppa on us!!
Love always, John, Jenny, Justine, Jessica and Jono
So who knows how much more we would have had to pay in Jhb!! The wonderful lady managed to get our luggage to automatically be transferred to our next flight and we managed to carry all our other bags as hand luggage which almost killed us getting to that plane!! Posted on Monday, Aug 4, 2008, 07:09 PM (UTC 2)
Log 43 - Hello from all on BluemoonWell - it has been 3 weeks since we have been back! I cannot believe how quick time flies!! We spent the first two weeks cleaning the boat and started with our provisioning which has been quite nice taking it slow. The weather has been unbelievable this side with winds howling and rain coming down at every inconvenient time yet we are sooo happy to be back!!
Thanks Alistar and Sue for the antifoul, it has saved us endless hours of cleaning! We are thrilled that the boat kept so well. I was expecting to be cleaning mould for years to come yet we had only a small amount starting. OK - we had an infestation of weevils!! Yet strangely enough we think because of the moth balls they did not get into the food!!!!! One packet of two minute noodles was like powder yet we could not believe how God�s grace covered even our food!! So moth balls are actually something to think about....
We set sail on Saturday morning with TY Amour, and Mc Duck for Beau Vallon. It was quite rough and also quite slow with the private aquarium we had attached to our boat... and were pleased to find a lot of it fell off while sailing.
What a feeling! Like a drug in your veins! Being back on the ocean again was so refreshing and so soul lifting!! Just what the doctor ordered!!
Bau Vallon was really a fun filled place! There were hobi cats, canoeists, wake boarding, and so many sports taking place that the action was so inviting! What a change!! The life that filled this little island was so uplifting!
The jet skies were in full throttle causing wakes like you have not seen!! Yet who thought they would eventually bother to such an extent that John was on that dingy racing around the bay trying to catch the idiot that thought he�d have some fun!!
The jet skies would come quite close to the boat and cause at times quite a big wake, though we were not to bothered about it. I was balancing on a stool trying to put up my birds and some �chimes�when one of these guys comes real close to the boat putting me off balance, and of course I never took that too well and was wobbling trying to keep my balance while yelling close to profanities at him, so I step onto the cockpit seat just before stepping onto the swim platform when this moron comes screaming around the boat almost hitting into the sugar scoops at the back and sprays a tidal wave of water over me, into the back cabins, and into the saloon where John was sitting! And he has the audacity to scream, with laughter!! I was drenched! The cell phone and camera was wet, our electrical box was wet as it was opened in the cockpit because John was fixing a few things!! Well..... I was speechless at this Russian idiots fun!! John looked at me, came out into a sopping wet cockpit and saw red! So he takes the batten with him just incase and heads off screaming after this guy to tell him what he did... and that started a flurry of questions about why he took the batten with him. Now with two places to hire the jet skies it just had to be that John chose the wrong one and waited for half an hour waiting as this guy seemed to go for a second time round, us thinking he was scared of John!! Well only to find it was a new guy and not the one we were looking for!!
Yet, with the winds and the sun everything dried out without any further issues.. We then had port control come up to us to tell us we are right in the channel where the jet skies go!!! And please to move! Well someone could have told us before hand, surely!
We caught a bus back to Victoria to drop our alternator off to be serviced and checked out, then did some shopping and caught a bus ride back. It was not as nerve wrecking as when we went with Sanyati!! There you had to have nerves of steel!
Now a fun part of this place is the waves at the shore.... a dingy does not fare to well with the swells and breaking waves.... so it was quite a challenge, every single time we went to shore! It was better to anchor the dingy just outside the swell and swim or snorkel to shore.
Jono has had endless fun surfing the waves with the canoe!! Strange how we all have been getting our tans back so quickly!
Caught a bus back to Victoria to collect our alternator after they put anew rotor on it.
Did some more shopping then witnessed a big scene at the court... a drug cartel were seeing the judge. Apparently it is a major problem here with drugs!
We thought we would catch a bus back but this time going up a familiar road we knew the bus would come on... so we asked a local and he told us which bus to catch, so we were enjoying a rather looooong ride, in an airconditioned bus!!! It was real cool!! Larney! Only to find we on the wrong bus!
So we had to walk the rest of the way back to Beau Vallon while picking green mangoes along the way. It is real pretty here except for the wind which blows all the time!!
Have spent some time with TY Amore and have had such a great time!! We have found all the nice little spots here, and had a really creamy ice-cream!
So today we summed up the amount of strenuous work we did this week away and have to admit we did close to nothing!! The whole week!! So now with our energy levels getting back to normal, we headed back to Port Victoria to stock up and catch another movie.
Have not been able to get wireless yet, so hopefully will be able to catch up with all the mail.
Well, have checked the rigging, and have got most of our provisions. This morning the two girls, Jono and myself went to get the rest of our supplies, unfortunately there are NO potatoes, flour, or popcorn anywhere on this island! Then we filled up with diesel while the girls went to off load, and Jono and I took a loooooooooooong walk to get the gas refilled!! Only problem we had with our three bottles of gas is the language! We had a leak in one of the bottles yet could not remember which one so I took all three to check, then I told them I did not want to take the leaky one back with me, and only wanted one to be filled, yet they filled all three!! So I told them I would only take two and pay for two and the walk seemed even longer coming back with two heavy, fulled gas bottles!! So exhausted is how we feel right now.... Yet we will keep waiting for some potatoes as we will need to get some fresh foods just before we leave.
Also, have pumped up our old duck as the newer one has collapsed on us! It is taking in water and so heavy to lift onto the davits that it is becoming a problem of bending the pipes.
Right now Justine is chopping up all the chillies and garlic for me so we can make a jar of hot stuff before we leave which should be in the next two weeks. It seems like the seasons are changing early, so we want to be ready and waiting to cross to Maldives, then onto Thailand.
We are all excited crossing the equator!! And hopefully will have a small celebration!!
Anyhow, till we have some news.... keep the chins up!
Always, John, Jenny, Justine, Jessica and Jonathan
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